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Gardening8 min read·February 15, 2025

Pruning Guide: When, Why, and How to Prune

Pruning is one of the most impactful things you can do in the garden. Here's how to approach it for trees, shrubs, and climbers.

Pruning Guide: When, Why, and How to Prune

Pruning is one of the most powerful tools in a gardener's arsenal — and one of the most feared. The golden rule: if in doubt, prune less. Plants are far more resilient to under-pruning than over-pruning.

Why We Prune

  • Shape: Control size and form
  • Health: Remove dead, diseased, or crossing stems
  • Flowering: Many plants bloom on specific year's growth
  • Renewal: Rejuvenate old, overgrown plants
  • The Timing Problem

    Timing is everything. The key principle:

    Plants that flower before June (forsythia, lilac, wisteria, spring-flowering shrubs) — prune immediately after flowering. They flower on last year's wood. If you prune in winter, you remove next year's flowers.

    Plants that flower after June (buddleja, roses, late-flowering shrubs, most herbaceous) — prune in late winter or early spring.

    Basic Technique

    Always cut just above a healthy bud or pair of buds. The bud should be pointing outward. Cut at a slight angle sloping away from the bud so water runs off. Use clean, sharp secateurs.

    The Three Ds

    When tackling any shrub or tree, start by removing the three Ds:

  • Dead stems — remove to healthy wood
  • Diseased stems — cut back past visible infection
  • Damaged stems — crossing branches that rub
  • Then assess the shape and selectively remove for structure.

    Hard Pruning

    Some shrubs (buddleja, dogwood grown for stem colour, elder) respond well to very hard pruning — cutting back to 30 cm from the ground in late winter. This produces vigorous, fresh growth.

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